Wednesday, December 17, 2008

Far and away


After disembarking the Indochina Sails Junk onto a smaller wooden boat, we sail towards the shore of Ngoc Vung Island along with my fellow travellers and a bunch of mountain bikes. We are off for a cycling tip across this mysterious island which sits amongst the awe inspiring Halong archipelago. Ngoc Vung (Mother Pearl) island is 50km from Halong City’s Wharf.

Once all around the island you could plunge below and find a plethora of pearls, hence the name ‘Mother Pearl’ island. The island is 12 square kilometers in area with over 1,000 inhabitants living mainly off fishing, farming, aquaculture and afforesting.

“If you see the island from helicopter, Ngoc Vung looks like a beautiful velvet handkerchief with white edging,” says the captain of Huong Hai junk. “It seems to be floating on the water’s surface.” “Once upon a time, when night fell, the island would have been illuminated by the incandescent pearls below,” he continues, lost in his own happy reverie. Too bad, I reflect, that these finite ocean treasures have been plundered.

After we arrive at the island’s small wharf we grab our bikes and prepare to cycle to the east side of the island where we’ve been promised we will find deserted beaches. We take a coastal road that skirts the island’s hilly terrain. The road is spectacular. There is never a chance to get bored with stunning views of land and sea.

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